Planting Guides
When to Plant Kale in Raleigh: Complete Guide + Best Varieties for Zone 7b
Raleigh, North Carolina
USDA Zone 7b
Last Frost: Apr 5
Last updated: October 30, 2025
Learn when to plant kale in Raleigh with specific dates for Zone 7b. Compare 5 varieties & discover which kale grows best in North Carolina.
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Quick Answer
Plant kale in Raleigh February 15-March 15 for spring harvest and July 20-August 20 for superior fall crop. Fall-planted kale sweetens after first frost in November.
TL;DR
Best planting times for Raleigh: Spring crop from February 15-March 15, fall crop from July 20-August 20. Fall kale tastes sweeter after frost and provides harvest through winter. Brassica oleracea 'Winterbor' and Brassica oleracea 'Lacinato' excel in Zone 7b conditions with excellent cold tolerance.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I plant kale for the best flavor in Raleigh?
Plant kale in late July to early August for fall harvest in Raleigh. Fall-grown kale tastes significantly sweeter than spring plantings because November frosts trigger the plant's natural conversion of starches to sugars. This biochemical process, called cold acclimation, occurs when temperatures drop between 28-32°F (-2 to 0°C) for several consecutive nights. Spring kale, while edible, lacks this frost-sweetening and often develops bitterness when warm weather arrives in May. For maximum flavor, time your fall planting so mature kale experiences Raleigh's first frost around November 4.
Can kale survive winter outdoors in Raleigh without protection?
Yes, kale survives Raleigh winters outdoors with minimal protection in Zone 7b. Brassica oleracea 'Winterbor' and Brassica oleracea 'Lacinato' regularly overwinter without cover when established before first frost. Apply 4-inch (10 cm) straw mulch around plants in November to insulate roots and prevent freeze-thaw damage. During typical Raleigh winters with lows of 15-25°F (-9 to -4°C), mature kale plants enter semi-dormancy but continue producing harvestable leaves during warm spells. Severe cold snaps below 10°F (-12°C) may require temporary row cover protection, but these events occur rarely in Zone 7b.
Why won't my kale seeds germinate when planted in July?
Kale seeds fail to germinate in July because Raleigh soil temperatures exceed 85°F (29°C), which inhibits germination. Kale seeds require soil temperatures between 45-75°F (7-24°C) for successful sprouting. During July heat waves, soil temperatures can reach 95-100°F (35-38°C), essentially "cooking" the seeds. Solution strategies: Pre-cool soil with thick mulch for one week before planting, use temporary shade cloth to reduce soil temperature, water deeply the evening before planting, or start seeds indoors in air conditioning and transplant sturdy seedlings after 3-4 weeks. Plant during late afternoon when soil is coolest, and maintain consistent moisture until germination occurs.
Which kale varieties handle Raleigh's spring heat best?
Brassica oleracea 'Red Russian' handles spring heat better than other varieties in Raleigh, followed by Brassica oleracea 'Lacinato'. Red Russian matures quickly (50-60 days) allowing harvest before sustained 80°F+ (27°C) temperatures trigger bolting. Lacinato shows superior heat tolerance among full-size varieties and resists bolting longer during warm spells. Avoid curly types like Winterbor and Redbor for spring planting—these varieties bolt rapidly when temperatures rise above 75°F (24°C). For spring success, plant early (February transplants), harvest aggressively when warm weather arrives, and accept shorter harvest windows compared to fall crops.
How do I know when fall-planted kale is ready to harvest?
Fall-planted kale reaches optimal harvest readiness 60-75 days after planting, typically in mid to late October in Raleigh. Visual indicators include plants reaching 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) tall with leaves 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long. However, wait for first frost before major harvest to achieve maximum sweetness. After Raleigh's first November frost, leaves develop improved flavor, better texture, and reduced bitterness. Begin with outer leaves, cutting with clean scissors 1 inch (2.5 cm) above soil level. Plants continue producing new growth from the center, providing harvest through winter. Take no more than one-third of total leaves at once to maintain plant vigor for continued production.
Can I grow kale in containers in Raleigh?
Absolutely—containers work excellently for kale in Raleigh, particularly Brassica oleracea 'Vates' which grows compact at 12-16 inches (30-40 cm) tall. Use containers minimum 12 inches (30 cm) wide and 8 inches (20 cm) deep for single plants, or 18-inch (45 cm) wide containers for multiple plants spaced 8 inches (20 cm) apart. Container advantages in Zone 7b: Easy movement for temperature protection, better soil drainage than clay ground soil, earlier soil warming in spring, and simplified pest management. Use high-quality potting mix, provide consistent watering (containers dry faster), and place in location receiving 4-6 hours direct sunlight. Container kale overwinters successfully on covered patios or against south-facing walls for additional cold protection.
How often should I water kale during Raleigh's hot summers?
Water newly planted fall kale daily during Raleigh's July-August establishment period, providing 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week minimum. Once plants establish (3-4 weeks), reduce to deep watering every 2-3 days rather than daily light watering. Critical timing: Water in early morning (6-8 AM) to reduce evaporation and prevent fungal diseases. During heat waves above 95°F (35°C), plants may need twice-daily watering—morning and late afternoon. Check soil moisture 2 inches (5 cm) deep; if dry, water thoroughly until runoff occurs. Mulch around plants with 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) of straw or shredded leaves to retain moisture and cool soil. Established plants show stress by wilting during afternoon heat but recover by evening if adequately watered.
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Rachel Abrams
Rachel is a garden writer and photographer based in Raleigh who covers the Piedmont region of North Carolina. She has a journalism background and got into gardening after buying her first house and realizing she had no idea what any of the plants in her yard were. That curiosity led to a Master Gardener certification and eventually a garden writing career. Rachel is especially interested in native plants of the Southeast, seasonal color, and the challenge of gardening in red clay soil. Her photography background means she pays attention to how gardens look through the seasons—she thinks about visual composition as much as plant health. She writes clearly and directly, without the breathless enthusiasm that makes a lot of garden writing hard to trust.
