Plant Care

Why Your Container Tomatoes Have Blossom End Rot (And How to Fix It Fast)

Last updated: October 30, 2025
Dark sunken spots on your container tomato bottoms? That's blossom end rot from inconsistent watering and calcium issues. Learn the fast fixes that stop it now.
LLinda Kowalski
October 30, 2025
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Container grown tomato showing blossom end rot dark sunken spot on fruit bottom

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Quick Answer
Blossom end rot results from inconsistent watering and calcium uptake problems. Water daily at consistent times and apply foliar calcium spray immediately.
TL;DR
Blossom end rot shows up as dark, sunken spots on tomato bottoms and stems from inconsistent watering and calcium deficiency. Fix it immediately by watering daily at the same time, applying foliar calcium spray, and mulching soil surface. Prevention requires consistent moisture and proper container drainage—this isn't a disease you can cure with fungicide.
Frequently Asked Questions

Can I eat tomatoes with blossom end rot?

You can eat the unaffected portions of tomatoes with blossom end rot, but cut away all the dark, sunken areas completely. The damaged tissue isn't harmful but tastes bitter and has poor texture. However, blossom end rot makes tomatoes more susceptible to secondary bacterial and fungal infections that can be harmful, so inspect carefully and discard if you see any soft, slimy, or moldy areas beyond the original dark spots.

How fast can blossom end rot be stopped on container tomatoes?

Existing blossom end rot damage cannot be reversed, but you can stop new cases from forming within 7-10 days by establishing consistent daily watering and applying foliar calcium spray. New fruits developing after treatment show no blossom end rot if moisture levels remain consistent. The key is acting immediately when you notice the first affected fruits—every day you delay treatment means more fruits will develop the condition.

Do cherry tomatoes get blossom end rot in containers?

Cherry tomatoes rarely develop blossom end rot because their small fruit size requires much less calcium than large tomatoes. Their rapid fruit development cycle (45-65 days) also means less time for calcium deficiency to affect developing fruits. However, severely inconsistent watering in very small containers (under 3 gallons) can still cause blossom end rot even in cherry varieties. Stick to 5+ gallon containers for guaranteed prevention.

What's the difference between blossom end rot and other tomato problems?

Blossom end rot appears only on the bottom (blossom end) of tomatoes as dark, leathery, sunken spots that start small and expand. Other problems look different: early blight creates concentric ring patterns on leaves, late blight causes water-soaked spots that spread rapidly, and bacterial speck causes small raised spots with light centers. Blossom end rot never affects leaves or stems—only the fruit bottom—making it easy to identify correctly.

Does adding calcium supplements fix blossom end rot immediately?

Adding calcium to soil won't fix existing blossom end rot or help current developing fruits—the damage occurs during early fruit development when calcium transport is disrupted. Soil calcium amendments help prevent future fruits from developing blossom end rot, but they work slowly over 4-6 weeks. For immediate results, use foliar calcium spray applied directly to leaves, which provides calcium through leaf absorption and can help fruits that are just beginning to develop.

Can overwatering cause blossom end rot in container tomatoes?

Both overwatering and underwatering cause blossom end rot, but through different mechanisms. Overwatering suffocates roots, reducing their ability to absorb calcium even when it's present. Underwatering creates drought stress that stops calcium transport to fruits. The key is consistent moisture—soil should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Use a moisture meter to maintain the same moisture level daily rather than letting soil alternate between soggy and bone-dry conditions.

Why do some container tomato varieties get blossom end rot more than others?

Large-fruited varieties like 'Beefsteak' and 'Big Boy' are most susceptible because their big fruits require more calcium and have longer development periods where calcium disruption can occur. Determinate varieties sometimes show more blossom end rot than indeterminates because they set all their fruit at once, creating high calcium demand during a short period. Paste tomatoes like 'Roma' are moderately susceptible, while cherry tomatoes are naturally resistant due to their small size and quick development.
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Written By
L

Linda Kowalski

Linda's been growing tomatoes in containers on her suburban Pittsburgh balcony—ever since her kids grew up and she finally had time for hobbies again. She's a medical billing specialist by day and a tomato enthusiast by night and weekend. Linda started documenting her container growing experiments on a simple blog and discovered other renters and condo dwellers were desperate for practical advice. She tests different varieties every season, tracking yields, disease resistance, and flavor in a detailed spreadsheet. Linda's approach is practical and budget-conscious—she saves seeds, reuses containers, and makes her own fertilizer from kitchen scraps. Her specialty is maximizing production in small spaces, and she's perfected the art of growing full-size tomatoes in 5-gallon buckets. She's a Pennsylvania Master Gardener and teaches container growing workshops at her local library.

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