Fiddle Leaf Fig Root Rot: How to Save Your Plant

Recovery time depends on severity. Mild cases with 20-30% root loss show improvement in 2-3 weeks with new growth visible by week 6. Moderate cases with 40-60% root loss take 6-8 weeks for stabilization and 10-12 weeks for active growth. Severe cases with 70%+ root loss require 8-12 weeks just to stabilize, with visible improvement taking 3-4 months. The first sign of successful recovery is the plant stopping its decline—no new brown spots, no additional leaf drop. New leaf growth is the ultimate confirmation of recovery, typically appearing 6-10 weeks after treatment if conditions are optimal.

If 100% of roots are mushy and brown, the plant is likely dead. However, if even 10-15% of roots remain white and firm, recovery is possible though difficult. The plant will lose most or all leaves during recovery as it cannot support existing foliage with minimal roots. Your best option at this stage is propagation—take healthy stem cuttings from the top of the plant and root them in water or soil. This gives you a better chance of saving the plant's genetics than trying to recover a root system that's 95% destroyed. Read [[Fiddle Leaf Fig Propagation: 3 Easy Methods (With Photos)]] for detailed cutting instructions.

Remove leaves only if they are more than 50% damaged or completely yellow. Leaves with minor brown spotting (less than 30% affected) can still photosynthesize and help the plant recover. Each leaf produces energy through photosynthesis, and removing too many leaves deprives the plant of resources it needs for new root growth. However, severely damaged leaves (over 50% brown/yellow) drain more energy than they produce and should be removed with clean cuts at the petiole. Completely dead leaves should always be removed as they can harbor fungal spores.

For the first 2-3 weeks post-treatment, water only when soil is 75% dry, which typically means every 10-14 days. The reduced root system cannot process normal amounts of water, and overwatering during recovery invites reinfection. Check soil daily by inserting your finger 3-4 inches deep—if it feels even slightly moist, wait. As new roots develop (weeks 4-8), the plant will begin using water more quickly and you can gradually increase watering frequency. By weeks 8-12, return to normal watering schedule of when top 2-3 inches of soil dry completely. Use a moisture meter if you're unsure—it eliminates guesswork and prevents the overwatering that caused root rot in the first place.

Yes, the fungal pathogens that cause root rot (Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia) can spread through contaminated tools, pots, soil, and even water runoff. Always sterilize pruning shears between plants using rubbing alcohol or 10% bleach solution. Never reuse soil from an infected plant, even if it looks fine. Sterilize pots thoroughly before reusing them. Keep infected plants isolated during treatment to prevent cross-contamination through water splashing or shared saucers. If you water multiple plants in the same area, do the infected plant last and clean the area afterward. These fungi can persist in soil and on surfaces for months, making prevention of spread critical.