Plant Care

Fiddle Leaf Fig Root Rot: How to Save Your Plant

Last updated: November 1, 2025
Root rot is killing your fiddle leaf fig, but it's not too late. Learn the exact steps to diagnose, treat, and prevent this deadly condition.
DDr. Sarah Green
November 1, 2025
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Healthy white fiddle leaf fig roots after root rot treatment showing recovery
Image © PlantReference.org 2025
TL;DR
Root rot happens when your fiddle leaf fig sits in waterlogged soil, suffocating roots and causing fungal infection. Brown or black mushy roots, yellowing leaves, and dark spots spreading across foliage signal root rot. The fix: remove the plant, cut away all diseased roots with sterilized shears, repot in fresh well-draining soil, and adjust your watering schedule immediately. Caught early, most plants recover within 4-8 weeks.
Product Recommendations

Perfect Plants Fiddle Leaf Fig Soil (8QT)

($18-25)Fast-draining professional blend that prevents root rot

Perfect Plants Fiddle Leaf Fig Soil - 8 Quart Premium Professional Potting Mix

https://www.amazon.com/Fiddle-Perfect-Plants-8QTS-Professional-Blend/dp/B07QLXL2M2

This premium soil blend combines coconut coir, pine bark fines, perlite, sand, and pre-mixed fertilizer specifically engineered for fiddle leaf figs. The lightweight composition provides excellent drainage while retaining adequate moisture without waterlogging. Enhanced with slow-release fertilizer that feeds plants for up to 6 months after repotting. The chunky texture prevents soil compaction that leads to root rot, and included perlite creates air pockets essential for healthy root respiration. Particularly effective for root rot recovery because it dries quickly between waterings while maintaining structural integrity. Made in the USA with quality-controlled ingredients.

Price: $18.00-$25.00

Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears (Model 399241-1002)

($12-18)Precision cutting for clean root removal

Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears 399241-1002 - Stainless Steel Precision Garden Scissors

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-399241-1002-Micro-Tip-Pruning-Shears/dp/B00004SD76

Sharp stainless steel blades make clean, precise cuts through diseased roots without crushing healthy tissue—critical for successful root rot treatment. The micro-tip design allows detailed work in tight spaces around root balls, enabling removal of individual infected roots while preserving healthy ones. Easy-open spring-action reduces hand fatigue during extended pruning. Non-stick coating prevents sap and soil buildup, maintaining cutting efficiency. Blades are dishwasher-safe for easy sterilization between cuts to prevent disease spread. Ergonomic handles provide excellent control for delicate root surgery. Precise enough for fine root work but strong enough to cut 5/8-inch diameter stems.

Price: $12.00-$18.00

XLUX Soil Moisture Meter T10

($8-12)Prevent future overwatering with accurate readings

XLUX Soil Moisture Meter T10 - Analog Plant Water Monitor for Indoor and Outdoor Use

https://www.amazon.com/XLUX-Moisture-Sensor-Tester-Outdoor/dp/B0BTM794R7

This analog moisture meter provides instant, accurate soil moisture readings without batteries or charging. The color-coded dial displays three zones—Dry, OK, and Wet—making it foolproof for beginners while precise for experienced growers. Dual-needle detection technology samples moisture at two depths simultaneously, giving accurate readings 3-4 inches deep where fiddle leaf fig roots actually live. The large, easy-to-read gauge eliminates guesswork about when to water, helping maintain the 50-75% dry soil that prevents root rot. Simply insert the probe vertically into soil, avoid rocks, and read immediately. No calibration required, and all-metal construction withstands repeated soil insertions.

Price: $8.00-$12.00

Hydrogen Peroxide 3% Solution (32 oz)

($5-8)Root treatment and soil sterilization

Swan Hydrogen Peroxide 3% Topical Solution USP - 32 Fluid Ounces

Available at pharmacies, grocery stores, and Amazon

Food-grade 3% hydrogen peroxide serves as effective, inexpensive antifungal treatment for root rot without chemical harshness. When diluted 1:3 with water and used as root soak, it kills surface fungal spores on remaining healthy roots while releasing oxygen that helps traumatized roots recover. Oxygen release benefits soil by breaking down organic matter and eliminating anaerobic pockets where fungal pathogens thrive. Can be used as soil drench at 1 tablespoon per gallon to treat mild root rot without repotting, though severe cases always require complete repotting. Safe for organic growing and won't harm beneficial soil microbes at recommended dilutions.

Price: $5.00-$8.00

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take for a fiddle leaf fig to recover from root rot?

Recovery time depends on severity. Mild cases with 20-30% root loss show improvement in 2-3 weeks with new growth visible by week 6. Moderate cases with 40-60% root loss take 6-8 weeks for stabilization and 10-12 weeks for active growth. Severe cases with 70%+ root loss require 8-12 weeks just to stabilize, with visible improvement taking 3-4 months. The first sign of successful recovery is the plant stopping its decline—no new brown spots, no additional leaf drop. New leaf growth is the ultimate confirmation of recovery, typically appearing 6-10 weeks after treatment if conditions are optimal.

Can you save a fiddle leaf fig with completely rotten roots?

If 100% of roots are mushy and brown, the plant is likely dead. However, if even 10-15% of roots remain white and firm, recovery is possible though difficult. The plant will lose most or all leaves during recovery as it cannot support existing foliage with minimal roots. Your best option at this stage is propagation—take healthy stem cuttings from the top of the plant and root them in water or soil. This gives you a better chance of saving the plant's genetics than trying to recover a root system that's 95% destroyed. Read [[Fiddle Leaf Fig Propagation: 3 Easy Methods (With Photos)]] for detailed cutting instructions.

Should I cut off leaves with brown spots after treating root rot?

Remove leaves only if they are more than 50% damaged or completely yellow. Leaves with minor brown spotting (less than 30% affected) can still photosynthesize and help the plant recover. Each leaf produces energy through photosynthesis, and removing too many leaves deprives the plant of resources it needs for new root growth. However, severely damaged leaves (over 50% brown/yellow) drain more energy than they produce and should be removed with clean cuts at the petiole. Completely dead leaves should always be removed as they can harbor fungal spores.

How often should I water after root rot treatment?

For the first 2-3 weeks post-treatment, water only when soil is 75% dry, which typically means every 10-14 days. The reduced root system cannot process normal amounts of water, and overwatering during recovery invites reinfection. Check soil daily by inserting your finger 3-4 inches deep—if it feels even slightly moist, wait. As new roots develop (weeks 4-8), the plant will begin using water more quickly and you can gradually increase watering frequency. By weeks 8-12, return to normal watering schedule of when top 2-3 inches of soil dry completely. Use a moisture meter if you're unsure—it eliminates guesswork and prevents the overwatering that caused root rot in the first place.

Can root rot spread to other plants?

Yes, the fungal pathogens that cause root rot (Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia) can spread through contaminated tools, pots, soil, and even water runoff. Always sterilize pruning shears between plants using rubbing alcohol or 10% bleach solution. Never reuse soil from an infected plant, even if it looks fine. Sterilize pots thoroughly before reusing them. Keep infected plants isolated during treatment to prevent cross-contamination through water splashing or shared saucers. If you water multiple plants in the same area, do the infected plant last and clean the area afterward. These fungi can persist in soil and on surfaces for months, making prevention of spread critical.
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Written By
D

Dr. Sarah Green

Sarah earned her doctorate in plant biology and spent time working in botanical garden education before transitioning to freelance writing and consulting. Now based in Portland, Oregon, she teaches plant identification workshops at local community centers and maintains a modest collection of over 60 houseplants in her small apartment. Sarah specializes in helping beginners understand plant science without the jargon—her approach focuses on practical observation over theory. She's killed her fair share of fiddle leaf figs and finally cracked the code on keeping them alive.

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